Curing your winter squash for storage
Garden of Eatin', How-To, Vegetables

Curing Your Winter Squash for Storage

Before I started gardening, I used to think winter squash referred to the squash that grew over winter. Only after harvesting my very first “winter” squash did I realize all the pumpkins, hubbards, butternuts, and turbans that arrived at the turn of cool weather actually took three or four months to get there!

Cucurbita maxima, Cucurbita moschata, Cucurbita mixta, and Cucurbita pepo are summer-growing annuals, maturing through the warmer months and storing through the winter (with some varieties even holding into the following spring).

Though you can use them right away (and what’s more heartwarming than a winter squash roasted to sugary sweetness or blended into delectable creaminess as the weather turns cooler?), you can also save them for two, three, even six months from now with proper curing.

Winter squash differ from summer squash in that they’re picked at the end of the season when their rinds have toughened up, their seeds have fully developed, and their leaves have started to wither.

The leaves are the first sign of fruit maturity. Once they start to yellow on their own and the vines look like they’re on their way out (before frost hits), the squash should be fully ripe. But don’t wait until the first frost! Squash that has been hit with frost will not ripen or store well.

Fully mature winter squash on a vine

A tan, cracked, and hardened stem that’s died off is a good clue to look at; so is resistance to the stab of a fingernail. You might make a slight dent in the skin, but you shouldn’t be able to puncture all the way through the flesh. The squash should sound hollow when you give it a good thump with your hand, and the skin’s glossy sheen will give way to a duller tone.

Test the rind's toughness with your fingernail

Slight dent with a fingernail

At this point, cut the squash from the plant, leaving at least 3 inches of stem. The stem is the fruit’s fail-safe seal against rot and disease, so avoid lifting it by the stem and instead hold it from the bottom.

Leave at least 3 inches of stem on the squash

Handle your winter squash gently

Despite their burly appearance, winter squash actually require a little babying to keep them from spoiling. Treat them gently while their skins continue to toughen up and the sun heals any cuts or cracks that could lead to rotting later.

A few minor marks on the surface are generally nothing to worry about, but these are the squash that should eventually be eaten first. Same goes for squash that might be bruised or broken; they won’t store well. Squash may also develop ground stains on their skin where they laid on the ground while growing. These superficial spots are merely discolorations and have no effect on the flesh underneath.

Allow the sun to to heal any cuts or cracks

Surface blemishes on squash

Once you’ve harvested all your squash, lay them out in the sun in a warm, well-ventilated area (around 80°F to 85°F is ideal). Mine are simply spread out in the field where they’re not in the way. If there’s a threat of rain coming, move them inside to a dry, cozy place like an attic near a sunny window, a sun room, or a greenhouse, or even a sunny windowsill. Just don’t forget about them!

Winter squash soaking up the sun

Winter squash need a good two weeks of warmth and sunlight to properly cure. In that time, the fruit continues to “breathe” but as its skin hardens, the rate of respiration (and thus the rate of spoilage) slows down. The harder the skin is, the longer it will keep in storage. Think of the hardened skin as a protective layer of armor; it makes the squash impervious to mold and bacteria. Curing also concentrates the natural sugars in squash, making them sweeter and richer.

I like to turn my squash over after one week and let the other side soak up some sun for the remaining week. Under cloudy conditions, allow two weeks per side.

Once fully cured, store your squash in a cool, dry, and well-ventilated area with an ambient room temperature below 70°F. Very cold conditions (anything under 50°F) will shorten storage life. Don’t just lump all your squash together into a large bin and call it good; stash them in a single layer on a shelf with ample air circulation, where they’re easy to check on throughout the season. You want to keep an eye out for blemishes and soft spots and use those up first.

The following winter squash hold well with proper curing:

  • Delicata (2 to 3 months)
  • Spaghetti (2 to 3 months)
  • Pumpkins (2 to 3 months)
  • Butternuts (3 to 6 months)
  • Buttercups (3 to 6 months)
  • Turbans (3 to 6 months)
  • Banana (3 to 6 months)
  • Kabocha (4 to 6 months)
  • Hubbards (4 to 6 months)
  • Cushaws (4 to 6 months)

In general, the harder and thicker the rind, the longer it will store.

Acorn squash is an exception to the curing rule, as it declines in quality if left in the sun. It keeps (without curing) in ideal conditions for a month or two at most.

Sometimes I’ll get lucky and a squash will store longer than expected. I love to pull out, say, a hubbard in March — a squash that I’d harvested back in August! With only a couple of winter squash plants, you could be set on soups and roasts until the following spring when the weather finally turns warmer.

Previous Post Next Post

You Might Also Like

  • Hmmm I feel like my kabocha are already cured in the sun properly even though I haven’t cut their vines yet. IS that… is that how it can work? My current plan is just to wait for the temperature to get cold enough to threaten frost, then harvest and store where it’s cool. do I really have to heat them first? Improper storage cost me some pumpkins in the past.

    • Yes, they need heat and sun to properly cure. Just follow all the steps detailed in this post.

  • Pingback: 5 Tips in Storing Your Winter Squash | Fresh Organic Gardening()

  • Pingback: Five Things Friday | Garden Betty()

  • Pingback: 2014: A Year in Review | Garden Betty()

  • Pingback: Black Futsu Squash | Garden Betty()

  • McKenzie

    Your squash are stunning! I’m so envious. I moved and no longer have the space to grow them but they were my favorite garden vegetable. The last two years I grew them though, the leaves all turned yellow and wilted far far too early and I lost all my squash. Do you know why that would happen??

    • Unfortunately I don’t, as yellow leaves could mean any number of things: overwatering, underwatering, some kind of bacterial wilt or other fungus. I recommend growing squash in a large container if you no longer have ground space; they do very well as container plants, especially bush zucchini (whose vines don’t sprawl).

  • Great tips! My wife has a knack for saving our various squash/pumpkin plants. She stores them in our garage, off the floor but in a dark area and they do wonderful.

  • Cary Bradley

    Perfect timing, as usual! Bambi just at some leaves of my Delicata plants (first time growing these), but crop yield looks great. Think next year I’ll grow more types, maybe 1-2 plants of each type and compare characteristics. In Whittier one year, we had a wonderful crop of Queensland Blues that climbed up our pool fence, all by themselves and heavily hung unsupported, until ripe. Amazing! Your crop looks fabulous! Congratulations! 🙂

    • Thanks! I love trying new varieties of squash every year. Each one is so unique!

  • Greg

    I live in the desert. It is still about 100 here. how should I cure my squash?

    • Leave them out for an extra week or two in an area that gets mostly morning sun or late afternoon sun.

Read previous post:
Sparkling summer sangria with lemongrass, ginger and peach
Sparkling Summer Sangria with Lemongrass, Ginger and Peach

If you've made my lemongrass-ginger syrup, you're probably wondering what else you can do with it besides pouring bottomless lemongrass-ginger...